Lena

Asturias's gateway through the Pajares pass, crowned by pre-Romanesque Santa Cristina

In Lena, the idea of ‘entering’ Asturias is quite literal. For centuries, the Pajares Pass was a route for travellers, traders, pilgrims and armies, and this status as a border territory continues to shape the municipality. The road, the railway, the Vía Carisa and the Camino del Salvador each tell different versions of the same story: that of crossing the Cantabrian Mountains to reach the Asturian valleys. But Lena is not merely a corridor. You need only leave the main routes and head towards Tuiza, El Meicín, La Cubilla or La Cobertoria to find yourself in a high-mountain landscape where distances are measured differently.

Much of its territory opens out onto the Las Ubiñas-La Mesa Natural Park, with glacial valleys, pastures, forests and peaks that attract walkers and mountaineers all year round. Valgrande-Pajares has a long-standing connection with winter sports, whilst mountain passes such as Cuitu Negru, La Cobertoria and La Cubilla have become landmarks for cyclists. It is a beautiful yet ever-changing mountain: it may be clear at dawn and become shrouded in mist in no time at all; it may present a gentle landscape from the valley floor, yet demand considerable effort just a few kilometres further up. This reality is part of Lena’s character and explains why the municipality resonates so strongly with those who enjoy both the journey and the challenge.

Perched on a hill overlooking the valley lies Santa Cristina de Lena, one of the most unique examples of Asturian pre-Romanesque architecture and part of the site recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is small in scale, but the setting, the architecture and the silence that surrounds it lend the visit a special significance. The Pre-Romanesque Educational Centre helps visitors to understand this heritage before continuing on to La Pola, Campomanes or the villages in the municipality. For centuries, Lena has been the gateway to Asturias. Today it remains a place of passage for many, although its mountains, villages and heritage offer more than enough reasons to stay